KCI Digital Archive

THE KYOTO COSTUME INSTITUTE

Collections 1940s

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©The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Takashi Hatakeyama

Turban[Upper left]

c. 1945

Designer: 
unknown
Brand: 
Hellen & René
Label: 
Hellen & René
Material: 
Brown silk georgette, padding at top.
Dimension: 
24.0cm (width) / 27.0cm (height)

Turban[Upper center]

c. 1943

Designer: 
Gérard Albouy
Brand: 
Albouy
Label: 
ALBOUY 49, RUE DU COLISÉE ELYsée 91-23 PARIS
Material: 
Red velvet padded tube.
Dimension: 
23.0cm (width) / 26.0cm (height)

Turban[Upper right]

c. 1945

Designer: 
unknown
Brand: 
Janine
Label: 
JANINE Opé 27-92 S4 Rue Vignon PARIS
Material: 
Silk crepe printed in navy, white and red, padding at top.
Dimension: 
24.0cm (width) / 21.5cm (height)

Hat[Lower left]

c. 1945

Designer: 
Marie-Louise Bruyère
Brand: 
Bruyère
Label: 
BRUYÈRE 22, PLACE VENDÔME, PARIS
Material: 
Beige straw with black silk faille ribbon and hatpin.
Dimension: 
25.0cm (width) / 33.0cm (height)

Turban[Lower middle]

c. 1943

Designer: 
unknown
Brand: 
Caroline Ranchin
Label: 
Caroline Ranchin 10, RUE DUPHOT PARIS
Material: 
Pink velvet with hatpin.
Dimension: 
20.0cm (width) / 26.0cm (height)

Turban[Lower right]

c. 1944

Designer: 
Marie-Louise Bruyère
Brand: 
Bruyère
Label: 
BRUYÈRE 22, PLACE VENDÔME, PARIS
Material: 
Pale gray wool jersey with padding at top.
Dimension: 
21.0cm (width) / 30.0cm (height)

Regulations that came into force during World War II combined with a serious shortage of materials meant that Parisian "haute couture" had to slow down its activity. Even hairpins disappeared from the market, so women could not put up their hair. Hats attracted women's attention and their styles became much more varied because they could cover undressed hair and bring quick elegance to plain clothing; in addition, they were not regulated items. Elaborate hats such as high-rising turbans and straw hats with plenty of floral ornament were an effective contrast to the restricted dresses in Paris.

Inventory Number(s): AC5948 88-56-24 [Upper left]AC6060 88-56-136 [Upper center]AC6062 88-56-138 [Upper right], AC5992 88-56-68AC [Lower left], AC6046 88-56-122AB [Lower middle], AC5993 88-56-69 [Lower right],