KCI Digital Archive

THE KYOTO COSTUME INSTITUTE

Collections 1980s

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The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Yuji Ono

Smoking Jacket

Autumn/Winter 1986

Designer: 
Yves Saint Laurent
Brand: 
Yves Saint Laurent
Label: 
YVES SAINT LAURENT PARIS
Material: 
Black silk satin single-breasted jacket; peak lapel in white silk satin; padded at shoulders.
Credit: 
Gift of Estate of Tina Chow

A smoking jacket (tuxedo) for women. Although smoking jackets are usually made for men, this jacket was transformed into an elegant evening dress for women.
In the spring/summer collection of 1966 Yves Saint Laurent introduced his first smoking suit. At a time when the women's liberation movement was expanding to have an impact on society worldwide, he successively introduced women's clothes transformed from men's clothes, including pea jackets, (1962), city pants (1967) and safari suits (1968). His smoking jackets were particularly appreciated because they brought an androgynous element into the category of female evening dress. Saint Laurent created many smoking jackets, continuing until his last years, and they became an iconic part of his oeuvre.

Inventory Number(s): AC7654 92-43-4