KCIDigital Archives

The KCI Digital Archives on the KCI website presents image and text information for the objects in the collection, arranged in chronological order.

Smoking Jacket

© The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Yuji Ono

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Smoking Jacket

Autumn/Winter 1986

Yves Saint Laurent
Yves Saint Laurent
Black silk satin single-breasted jacket; peak lapel in white silk satin; padded at shoulders.
Credit Line
Gift of Estate of Tina Chow
Inventory Number(s)
AC7654 92-43-4

A smoking jacket (tuxedo) for women. Although smoking jackets are usually made for men, this jacket was transformed into an elegant evening dress for women.
In the spring/summer collection of 1966 Yves Saint Laurent introduced his first smoking suit. At a time when the women's liberation movement was expanding to have an impact on society worldwide, he successively introduced women's clothes transformed from men's clothes, including pea jackets, (1962), city pants (1967) and safari suits (1968). His smoking jackets were particularly appreciated because they brought an androgynous element into the category of female evening dress. Saint Laurent created many smoking jackets, continuing until his last years, and they became an iconic part of his oeuvre.