
© The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Takashi Hatakeyama
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Turban
c. 1945 [Upper left]
c. 1943 [Upper center]
c. 1945 [Upper right]
c. 1945 [Lower left]
c. 1943 [Lower middle]
c. 1944 [Lower right]
- Designer
- unknown [Upper left]
Gérard Albouy [Upper center]
unknown [Upper right]
Marie-Louise Bruyère [Lower left]
unknown [Lower middle]
Marie-Louise Bruyère [Lower right] - Brand
- Hellen & René [Upper left]
ALBOUY 49, RUE DU COLISÉE ELYsée 91-23 PARIS [Upper center]
Janine [Upper right]
Bruyère [Lower left]
Caroline Ranchin [Lower middle]
Bruyère [Lower right] - Label
- Hellen & René [Upper left]
Albouy [Upper center]
JANINE Opé 27-92 S4 Rue Vignon PARIS [Upper right]
BRUYÈRE 22, PLACE VENDÔME, PARIS [Lower left]
Caroline Ranchin 10, RUE DUPHOT PARIS [Lower middle]
BRUYÈRE 22, PLACE VENDÔME, PARIS [Lower right] - Material
- Brown silk georgette, padding at top. [Upper left]
Red velvet padded tube. [Upper center]
Silk crepe printed in navy, white and red, padding at top. [Upper right]
Beige straw with black silk faille ribbon and hatpin. [Lower left]
Pink velvet with hatpin. [Lower middle]
Pale gray wool jersey with padding at top. [Lower right] - Dimension
- 24.0cm (width) / 27.0cm (height) [Upper left]
23.0cm (width) / 26.0cm (height) [Upper center]
24.0cm (width) / 21.5cm (height) [Upper right]
25.0cm (width) / 33.0cm (height) [Lower left]
20.0cm (width) / 26.0cm (height) [Lower middle]
21.0cm (width) / 30.0cm (height) [Lower right] - Inventory Number(s)
- AC5948 88-56-24 [Upper left]
AC6060 88-56-136 [Upper center]
AC6062 88-56-138 [Upper right]
AC5992 88-56-68AC [Lower left]
AC6046 88-56-122AB [Lower middle]
AC5993 88-56-69 [Lower right]
Regulations that came into force during World War II combined with a serious shortage of materials meant that Parisian "haute couture" had to slow down its activity. Even hairpins disappeared from the market, so women could not put up their hair. Hats attracted women's attention and their styles became much more varied because they could cover undressed hair and bring quick elegance to plain clothing; in addition, they were not regulated items. Elaborate hats such as high-rising turbans and straw hats with plenty of floral ornament were an effective contrast to the restricted dresses in Paris.