KCIDigital Archives

The KCI Digital Archives on the KCI website presents image and text information for the objects in the collection, arranged in chronological order.

Day Ensemble “Miss No. 5”

© The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Takashi Hatakeyama

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Day Ensemble “Miss No. 5”

Autumn/Winter 2017

Designer
Demna Gvasalia
Brand
Vetements
Label
VETEMENTS POUR FEMME TAILLEUR HIVER 2018 PRET-A-PORTER
Material
Jacket of beige cotton and synthetic tweed combined with bow blouse of white figured synthetic fabric with logos; matching skirt with unsewn hemline and black embroidery at hem.
Inventory Number(s)
AC13657 2018-23AB

While this outfit follows the style of the Chanel Suit, the neck and bottom of the blouse have been intentionally tailored to produce a disheveled look. The embroidered French term “longueur genou” (knee-length) with dotted line and scissors a little above the bottom of the unhemmed skirt prompts a smile. This outfit is one of the pieces from the prêt-a-porter collection of Demna Gvasalia’s Vetements brand, which was included in the official haute couture Paris Fashion Week calendar. While seeming to mock as stereotype the conventional thinking that simply wearing a Chanel Suit ensures fashionableness and that it is a safe choice, it also reveals that this style, which was created and popularized by Gabrielle Chanel, actually demands a high degree of refinement from those who wear it. In harmony with the matter-of-fact tone of the brand’s name, which simply means “clothing” in French, the fashion house takes an interest in real, everyday attire of common people, presenting everyday items such as hooded parkas as fashionable clothing. The influence from Gvasalia’s time learning under Martin Margiela can be seen in this methodology, which is reminiscent of the contemporary art technique known as appropriation. Realizing that even these designers felt compelled to address the Chanel Suit when communicating the reality of fashion on the street reminds us of the significance and impact of the style that Chanel created.

2010s