KCIDigital Archives

The KCI Digital Archives on the KCI website presents image and text information for the objects in the collection, arranged in chronological order.

Dress

© The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Takeru Koroda

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Dress

Autumn/Winter 2018

Designer
Maiko Kurogouchi
Brand
Mame Kurogouchi
Label
Mame Kurogouchi
Material
White silk and polyester plain weave; floral and fruit patterns by Jacquard, embroidery, and print; Green lace at yoke and upper sleeves. Yoryu fabric at the cuffs; Black strings at the waist and sleeves.
Inventory Number(s)
AC13660 2018-25-2

Lilies, iris japonica, bamboo grass, nandina, chinese quince…looking at the fresh seasonal flowers, grasses and fruit covering the dress is like viewing a Japanese folding screen painting that features plants from all four seasons. The floral patterns are based on designer Mame Kurogouchi’s sketches of the plants growing around her home and office which she then showcased in her dress designs. To ensure the highest quality representation and design of the botanical images, Kuroguchi selected highly specialized craftsmen from the Hokuriku region for weaving, Kyoto for fabric dyeing, and Kiryu for embroidery, applying a range of techniques to reproduce the images on the fabric, after which the garment was sewn.
Kurogouchi, had been participating in Tokyo Fashion Week since the spring summer 2011 collection. Her first Paris collection was 2018, the year that this garment was shown. This collection was inspired by returning to the examples of nature in the designer’s surroundings, as well as by understated yet lovingly created hand-made objects. This garment incorporates both these elements and is arguably a contemporary manifestation of the traditional Japanese aesthetic in which even wildflowers and grasses are meticulously depicted.

2010s