KCIDigital Archives

The KCI Digital Archives on the KCI website presents image and text information for the objects in the collection, arranged in chronological order.

Jumpsuit, Belt

© The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Takeru Koroda

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Jumpsuit, Belt

Spring/Summer 2019 - France

Designer
John Galliano
Brand
Maison Margiela
Material
Men’s jumpsuit, reworked from a used Japanese wedding uchikake (women’s unbelted kimono); red polyester chirimen, embroidered with white and silver threads in a pattern of birds, flowers, fans, and other auspicious motifs; white patent leather belt.
Inventory Number(s)
AC13812 2020-16, AC13813 2020-17

This garment features a pattern in white and silver embroidery against a bright red background. The flowers depicted are plum, chrysanthemum and peony, with glimpses of auspicious motifs such as tortoise shells, fans and a large pheasant. It was remade into a men’s jumpsuit by disassembling a women’s uchikake or the outer robe of a wedding kimono. After the retirement in 2009 of designer Martin Margiela (1957–) who employed artistic techniques to create his ready-made garments, John Galliano (1960–) took over as creative director of Maison Margiela in 2014, taking his predecessor’s techniques to another level visually while using Margiela’s techniques, creating an iconic look. This garment was shown as part of the Artisanal collection showcasing upcycled designs made from existing clothing including secondhand clothes. Through the Artisanal range, dating to the early days of the brand and which was only produced in small lots in the atelier, Galliano effortlessly transcended the boundaries between East and West, male and female, and notions of “special” and “everyday” wear.

2010s