© The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Takeru Koroda
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Day Dress
c. 1895
- Material
- Ivory silk and wool mixed plain weave with a small pattern of three crosses and three lines; gigot sleeves; beaded decoration on collar.
- Inventory Number(s)
- AC999 78-30-13AB
At times fashion has referenced history, generating a new trend in the form of a revival. An excellent example is the large, puffed sleeves which made their appearance during the 1830s, believed to be inspired by Baroque era clothing. That revival took place once again during the 1890s, when sleeves increased in puffiness. In the novel In Search of Lost Time by Marcel Proust, the sleeves at the end of the 19th century were described as follows—“The ‘manche à gigot’ of the 1830s is reflected in the light puffiness around the shoulders of the black satin dresses,” frequently depicting the revival at the time, as represented by the clothing worn by the fashionable Madame Swann. Complex construction was required to create these puffed sleeves. In the 1830s, the techniques used included attaching down-filled sleeve pads under the sleeves, while in the 1890s multiple layers of different fabrics were sewn into the sleeves.
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