KCIDigital Archives

The KCI Digital Archives on the KCI website presents image and text information for the objects in the collection, arranged in chronological order.


© The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Takashi Hatakeyama

You can enlarge by putting the mouse cursor on the image.


Autumn/Winter 1997

Martin Margiela
Masion Martin Margiela
(cloth of white cotton)
White paper; numeric character print; two patterns each for the front body, back body and sleeves; one hook to hung on the left chest.
Inventory Number(s)
AC013379 2016-4-1AB

The number “42” indicating the size, the words “VESTE COTE” (vest coat) and “MANCHE” (sleeve), and the arrows indicating the direction of the fabric mark, this work is a jacket consisting of a sewing pattern (a paper pattern). The information required for cutting the fabric, such as the shape and size of each section of the garment are marked on the pattern, the role of which is to enable the two-dimensional fabric to become three-dimensional. However, Margiela takes the pattern, normally abandoned once the garment has been completed, instead presenting this as the garment itself. This Autumn/Winter 1997 collection was a continuation of the Spring/Summer 1997 collection that featured a jacket inspired by Stockman mannequin (AC9427). And in this collection, the pins and basting thread which are only ever used in the preparatory stage were retained in this jacket and in a number of other looks for the runway show. This design using a paper pattern alludes to the invisible production process, posing the question of what constitutes a “complete” or “incomplete” garment. Margiela, who shows his respect for the handiwork of craftspeople and who interprets, with irony, the ready-made garment industry, subverts the relationship between garment and a paper pattern to question the duality represented by “the paper pattern becoming a garment.”