Collar, overlap lining, and cuffs use top quality, glossy fitch fur. In addition to its functional role in keeping out the cold, fur has long been prized as a material for flaunting power and prosperity. Furs, particularly those from arctic and undeveloped areas, are still prestigious today, despite vocal opposition from animal rights protesters. Until the 19th century fur was generally used for lining, but at the beginning of the 20th century use on the outside became popular, and fur became one of the most outstanding adornments for manifesting luxury. Successful worldwide, and perhaps the best known luxury brand, Louis Vuitton began as a luggage maker in 1854. Even today, its LV monogram is associated with reliable quality and fresh, creative ideas, representing a brand that provides material, intellectual, and visceral satisfaction. In 1998, the brand entered the prêt-à-porter arena, led by young American designer Marc Jacobs.