KCIDigital Archives

The KCI Digital Archives on the KCI website presents image and text information for the objects in the collection, arranged in chronological order.

Dress “Rachel”

© The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Takashi Hatakeyama

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Dress “Rachel”

Spring/Summer 2005

Viktor Horsting, Rolf Snoeren
Viktor & Rolf
Black silk satin one-piece dress decorated with black moiré bows. The under bodice is cotton and rayon jacquard with spiral boning and a black moiré rosette fastened at the center of the chest. The black helmet is made by "Arai".
Inventory Number(s)
AC11307 2005-05-02-AC

A jet-black dress in which the helmet that covers the entire face is reminiscent of a rosette (a rose made of ribbon). The ribbon was a motif which made a frequent appearance in Viktor & Rolf’s Spring/Summer 2005 collection. At times used as an accessory to display one’s wealth, at other times evoking eroticism, the ribbon has always been an ambiguous symbol throughout history. In this two-part collection, after the appearance of a series of black garments, all of which feature ribbons in various shapes—as can be seen in this work—the stage rotates and the collection undergoes a change, with the black garments replaced by a group of colorful garments with red, pink, and gold as the keynote colors. The duality of the ribbon is emphasized here, as expressed in a statement by the designers: “The contrast between the masculine and the feminine, between stillness and movement etc. …the ribbon is the most suitable motif to express these” (Mode et Mode, Volume 330, Mode et Mode, 2005, p.157). In contrast to the positive image of the ribbon which is conventionally used to open a gift, this garment depicts a disturbing aspect of the ribbon, causing one to hesitate before opening a package out of curiosity.