KCIDigital Archives

The KCI Digital Archives on the KCI website presents image and text information for the objects in the collection, arranged in chronological order.

Coat

© The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Takeru Koroda

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Coat

Autumn/Winter 1988

Designer
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac
Brand
J. C. de Castelbajac
Label
none
Material
Off-white fake fur, overlaid with thirty-two teddybears of the same material.
Inventory Number(s)
AC13489 2017-13

Teddy bears in the same fake fur fabric as the coat have been sewn onto the entire surface of the garment. The jostling fluffy baby bears are adorable. Ever since the establishment of his label in 1975, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac (b. 1949) has continued to present designs incorporating humor and which remain unconstrained by the history of traditional Western dressmaking. This design is a typical example. Although the popularity of real fur was still at its peak at the end of the 1980s when this garment was shown, according to Castelbajac, “many famous women bought for they found it much more spectacular than a real fur coat”.
It is not only women who want to be embraced by the warmth of teddy bears. In recent years Castelbajac has been designing teddy bear coats for men, including music producer Pharrell Williams and rapper Drake, while the designer collaborated with the brand Vetements’ autumn winter 2024 collection in which the male models made wearing teddy bear coats hip and stylish.

1980s